The common denominator in men’s catwalks for Spring Summer 2018 in London, Florence, Milan and the last in Paris is a lack of arguments. Having nothing to say but talking anyway, nonsense. Again. But in return there is plenty of a common slovenliness that panders to the worst of what we see walking the streets everyday, between bad taste and a complete lack of style.
Slippers again, seriously? Belts which almost touch the ground, deformed oversized jackets as we saw worn by the poor Dr. Frankenstein’s creature, short socks in plein sight, platforms and fanny packs? All solutions where handiness meets comedy and creates a caricature. And again, fabric superfetations that it seems to be at the Derelicte catwalk by Mugatu in Zoolander.
The desire to astonish at all costs astonishes just for the lack of sartorial genius. There are no excuses like innovation or following the gender trend, in an attempt to break down every barrier between female and male, at least in clothing. If this were ever the purpose, the message of many collections, almost equal to each other, the only goal really reached here is the disappearance of style in men’s fashion. Few the creations one can wear without provoking hilarity or to be taken aback in this bearish fashion, where it seems the designer agreed to make a bad impression: a series of trolling, more than catwalks.
The designers’ supremacy walks the catwalk arm in arm with bad taste passed off as art, where is compulsory The Emperor’s New Clothes’ rule: who really wants to shout that “the king is naked?”
Speaking of bad taste, you sin in thinking bad about people but, often, you guess right. This men’s fashion that wants to please everybody is not the one you can look at to take it as an example of style and elegance anymore, but it’s now mirroring itself into the pond of global coarseness, speaking its same language not to make anyone feel excluded. That fashion industry, as any other one, is subjected to FOMO - the fear of missing out - on trends, interests and moods of the community is not a mystery.
Especially fashion, that more than other things needs to be taken while it is going.
But is it all so terrible this men’s fashion? There are some exceptions: for example Tom Ford, who at least uses slippers in the proper contexts, at the feet of the model in a beach apparel, and his re-designed tuxedo jackets in floral and animalier patterns; Armani, who stands out with the relaunch of wide pants; Fendi, with a collection that surely Wes Anderson liked a lot; Ferragamo; the graphic lines by Ports 1961, able to use slippers in a singular elegant way; Federico Curradi, who escapes embarrassment making his models walk barefoot; Hugo; the impeccable Belstaff and finally the ecological/circus provocation by Vivienne Westwood who doesn’t disappoint expectations.